By John Freedman
Originally posted elsewhere July 13, 2019
Reposted on Contemplating Crete April 12, 2021
Located just a few minutes’ drive from the popular palm grove beach at Vai, the beaches and ruins at Itanos are an extraordinary find. Vai, beautiful as it is, offers all the comforts of the modern world, cafes, wooden pathways through the sand, chaises lounges, umbrellas, bathrooms, etc. Very, very nice for someone. Itanos (pronounced EE-tanos) is my kind of place. It yanks you out of the present and challenges you to imagine yourself in the Crete that existed 3,000 to 1,200 years ago. The first settlers came here around the 10th century BC. Herodotus (c. 484 – c. 425 BC) was the first to write about Itanos. Founded in the Prehellenic period, it flourished in the Classical (c. 400-69 BC), Roman (c. 69 BC – 330 AD) and most of the 1st Byzantine (c. 330 – 824 AD) periods. It was severely damaged by an earthquake in 795 AD then finally destroyed by Arab attacks in the 9th century AD. But let’s not forget the beaches! There are three of them, each more inviting than the next. They are known both as Itanos beach and Erimoupolis beach. The first one you come upon after leaving your car in the dusty parking area, looks like something time forgot. A boat tethered to a rock floats gently offshore. A few people sitting motionless in the shade of trees stare at the horizon. There is something deeply ancient about the atmosphere here. Most of the visitors (there aren’t many) go to the sandy beach to the north. We headed south to the nearly abandoned beach stretching out beneath the ruins of the ancient town and basilica. We encountered just five people there, two of them dressed, three of them not, all of them hiding in the shade behind the trees. The southernmost beach is sandy, although the entrance to the crystal-clear water takes you through rocky patches. Sea slippers are recommended, but not obligatory. Even if you think you have to do Vai, leave enough time to stop by Itanos. You’ll be glad you did.
All text and photos © 2019 John Freedman. If you wish to reproduce, repost or use any of the text or any photo, please ask for permission. Renewal of copyright © 2021 John Freedman.
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