By John Freedman
Originally posted elsewhere June 7, 2019
Reposted on Contemplating Crete April 11, 2021
There are four Minoan palaces on Crete that we can visit – Knossos, Phaistos, Malia and Zakros. There is a fifth, Kydonia, that we may never see in its entirety because it is located beneath a densely populated area on Kastelli Hill in Chania on the northwest side of the island. Today we take a brief look at Phaistos, the earliest of whose structures was erected around 1,900-1,700 BC. There is, however, a tiny corner of one room that scholars have dated to a very early version built approximately in 3,200 BC. The palace at Phaistos (stress on the last syllable) was destroyed numerous times – I find references to pre-1,900 BC, 1,700 BC, and approximately 1,450 BC. It was rediscovered in 1863 by Thomas Abel Brimage Spratt, English vice-admiral, hydrographer and geologist. In his search for the ancient city he employed a map created by Strabo, the Greek geographer, philosopher and historian who lived from 64 or 63 BC to 24 AD. The actual excavation was overseen by Federico Halbherr, the Italian archaeologist and epigrapher. Phaistos lacks some of the “spectacular” elements of Knossos – frescoes, murals, painted columns, etc. – but this is primarily because no one “enhanced” the ruins as was done at Knossos by archaeologist and mystifier Arthur Evans. The “natural” look of the Phaistos ruins is especially convincing. The views of famed Mt. Ida to the north and the Massara plain down below are breathtaking. Phaistos is located roughly a one-hour drive southeast of Rethymno. I can’t recommend this trip highly enough. All text and photos © 2019 John Freedman. If you wish to reproduce, repost or use any of the text or any photo, please ask for permission. Renewal of copyright © 2021 John Freedman.
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